Chanel No 22. The name alone evokes images of Old Hollywood glamour, of sophisticated women with effortless style, and a perfume that whispers rather than shouts its presence. However, the reality for many perfume enthusiasts is a frustrating one: finding a bottle of Chanel No 22, particularly the Extrait, is akin to finding a rare vintage wine. This review will delve into the elusive world of Chanel No 22, exploring its history, its composition, its place in the Chanel fragrance lineage, and why, despite its discontinued status, it continues to fascinate and inspire. We’ll also address the practicalities of acquiring this coveted scent.
A Brief History: From the Roaring Twenties to Modern Obsession
Before diving into the specifics of the Extrait, it's crucial to understand the fragrance's legacy. Chanel No 22 Eau de Parfum, launched in 1922 (hence the name), represents a pivotal moment in the house of Chanel's history. It was created during the era of Art Deco, a period characterized by geometric precision, luxurious materials, and a bold sense of modernity. The fragrance itself reflects these aesthetic principles: a structured, sophisticated composition that doesn't rely on overt sweetness or overtly fruity notes. Instead, it presents a refined blend of aldehydes, florals, and powdery elements, resulting in a scent that's both classic and strikingly unique. While the precise formulation has likely evolved slightly over the decades (due to ingredient sourcing and availability), the core character has remained consistent in the various concentrations offered.
The fact that Chanel No 22 is frequently discussed in relation to "discontinued Chanel fragrances" and searches like "Chanel No 22 discontinued" or "Chanel 22 discontinued" highlights its iconic, yet elusive, nature. While the Eau de Parfum and likely other concentrations were available for many years, its eventual discontinuation cemented its status as a collector's item. This scarcity only fuels the mystique surrounding the fragrance, particularly the coveted Extrait de Parfum, which is known for its intense concentration and longevity. The search "where can I buy Chanel No 22 perfume" often leads to secondary markets, online auctions, and vintage perfume dealers, underscoring the difficulty in obtaining this elusive scent.
The Fragrance Itself: Deconstructing Chanel No 22
While precise notes lists can vary depending on the source and the vintage, Chanel No 22 is generally described as a floral aldehyde fragrance. The aldehydes, often cited as top notes alongside lily-of-the-valley, provide a bright, sparkling, almost metallic opening. This is not the soapy aldehyde blast found in some vintage fragrances; instead, it's a more refined, nuanced aldehyde accord that lends an ethereal quality to the composition.
The heart of Chanel No 22 is undoubtedly floral. Lily-of-the-valley is frequently mentioned, contributing a delicate sweetness and a touch of greenness. However, the floral bouquet is far more complex than a single note. Iris, rose, and jasmine are often suggested as contributing to the overall floral tapestry, creating a nuanced and multifaceted heart. These notes intertwine seamlessly, preventing any single flower from dominating the composition.
The base notes provide the grounding structure for the fragrance. These are typically described as powdery, woody, and subtly musky. The powderiness adds a sense of softness and refinement, preventing the floral notes from becoming too sharp or overwhelming. The woody notes contribute a touch of warmth and depth, while the musk lends a subtle sensuality. This interplay of notes results in a fragrance that's both elegant and enduring.
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